[波儿的波]回答鱼二,意大利佛罗伦萨米兰及旅游之我见[图]

周一一大早起来,看见鱼二的问题,到意大利佛罗伦萨和米兰,住在哪里比较好?哪里是时尚地带?哪里有好的酒吧咖啡馆餐馆?

佛罗伦萨我去过,但是,米兰我上次没去成,因为当时米兰有个盛大的设计展会,所有内城方便的酒店要不爆满,要不价钱是平日的两倍,所以我放弃了,而改道去了威尼斯。

这里涉及到一个关键的问题:必须住在内城吗?外城不行吗?

如果你是去旅游,长见识,也就是学习意大利文化,答案是:不行!

然后回到鱼二的问题:住在哪儿?

一定要住在内城,也就是老城的任何中心区域的地方都行。佛罗伦萨老城并不大,沿着河边的地方,步行30分钟能到的地方,我觉得都可以。这个又以ponte vecchio(市场桥)为中心。

上次我住在hotel lungarno,也就是ferragamo家族酒店,这个好像是四星的,走到任何地方都非常方便。你也可以找附近便宜的酒店,很多酒店在某个时刻都有折扣,这个得需要一点功课和搜索才行。总的来说,远离中心老城区的河对岸(大概是北岸,我记不清了)会比中心区域的这边便宜一些,但是如果离河不远,也很方便。

佛罗伦萨有两个美术馆必要参观:uffizi gallery 和 academia gallery,特别是前者,到了楼上的走廊窗口,可以鸟瞰老城区,而且这里是唯一可以拍照的室内地方。

然后别忘了到佛罗伦萨要乘巴士上山顶的大教堂(除了城里的大教堂,大卫像等等之外),那里也可以鸟瞰这个城市。当然佛罗伦萨内城每一步都是风景,跟酒店要张旅游地图就可以了解所有“必去”景点。还有修士院值得参观。

米兰的老城也很小,不过只有老城才有意思,城外就是大片工业区,景色非常贫瘠的说。建议住在duomo附近可以步行往之的任何地方都行。

对了,参观意大利的古典美术馆必须事先订票!不然游客预定爆满,你临时去还真不给进。所以佛罗伦萨的两个,以及米兰的academia,以及可以看[最后的晚餐]的达芬奇美术馆都得网上预定才行。这些美术馆都有严格的参观时间段,必须在指定的时间段去。

我帮你搜索到了时尚圈内最受欢迎的博主garance dore的“城市圈内指南-米兰“,贴在下面哈。

关于旅游,窃以为最好的是。。。

1. 有当地人朋友,最好还是了解时尚的朋友带你转悠。比如您到悉尼,我带着你玩儿,跟没有我带着,那差很远的说。吼吼!旅游不是看“风景”,而是all about the people and the culture。

2. 如果没有这样的“私人导游”,那么加入一两个当地的day tour小团也还可以。

3. 再其次自己跟一俩好友一起做功课,探索一个城市,一个地方也成。特别是欧洲老城,不需要导游,自己摸索也挺有意思。

4. 最糟糕的。。。!就是跟着中国的旅游团,那跟赶猪差不多,拉到景点咔嚓摆个pose拍个“到此一游”的傻了吧唧照片,冲进商店买买买,到旅游区食堂或者干脆chinatown来顿猪食,完全不明当地文化是怎么一回事儿,回来你问去哪儿了,ta可能都说不上来,就是自己跟自己high一下,还遭当地人一大堆白眼,这是最傻x的旅游方式。恕我直言哈。

所以! 要避免在“旗舰街”这类傻/大/粗/豪旅游景点的餐馆/咖啡馆进餐,这个可以问当地酒店,他们都会推荐附近不那么“游客式”的好去处,或者本地人光顾的餐饮地方,不过不要忘记给小费。

意大利是个小费国度,给小费是一种风度的体现。也不要出手太“阔绰”,直接拿钱“砸”,那样人家会把你当土豪的并不感激,适度并得体才能体现风度和修养,并让受者不感到“压迫”。学问大着呢,赫赫。

下面是garance的米兰指南,对一般游客太“内参”了点,所以仅供参考。

俺花了这么多功夫,您怎么也得请俺吃一顿吧?吼吼。当然换个人问俺,俺也许根本不花这些功夫哪!

http://www.garancedore.fr/en/2010/09/24/giorgia-milan/

——————————————————————————

We were having coffee and carrot cake (well, she was having the coffee, carrot cake was all mine, ahah), just a bit after the D&G runway show on the Viale Piave and she was telling me just how much she loved Milan. And then I thought that it would be sweet to have a Milanese girl as cool as Giorgia tell me some of her favorite places.

I started writing down all the questions I wanted to ask her. And then I got totally into this whole thing and started writing an e-mail full of questions that had nothing to do with Milan, the kind of questions I always like asking all the people I take pictures of. The result : three e-mails chuck full of questions. I just got this response:

“From : Giorgia Tordini

Subject : Re: other ideas!

Date : 23 September 2010 17:44:03 HAE (EUA)

To : Garance Doré

Ok, let’s hop right in. Here’s what Giorgia sent me :

I am a handbag and accessories designer. That’s usually how I describe my job, but I have a chance here to explain who I really am and what I like. I’ll try to do it slightly differently this time : I’ll introduce myself through the city I live in : Milan.

Best Multibrand Shop – ANTONIOLI – It’s all dark and you can barely see inside, but what I can see very well is that all my favorite designers are all there: Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, Alexander Wang… And a well thought out selection of jewelery. The choice they make is refined and edgy. I just love it!

Best Shopping Area – TICINESE – Check out: Frip, Wok and Frav! They all deserve to be seen!

Best Lingerie Shop - ROSAMOSARIO – My stylist friend Marianna showed me this little jewel. The designer and the owner is named Carlotta and she’s just a genius combining lace, femininity, satin, grace, silk and sensuality in her special pieces.

Best Vintage Shop – Franco Jacassi “VINTAGE DELIRIUM”: a museum of clothes, bags, glasses, shoes and any kind of ob<x>ject. A magic place,a real vintage paradise where to find pieces from 1910 to 1990, from Poiret and Vionnet to YSL and Chanel.

Best Milanese Food -

• AL GARGHET: It’s outside Milan located in the “kingdom of fields and frogs”…that’ s how Milaneses call it. It still has this magical and extraordinary atmosphere. This place has a history. It’s lovely to read the hand written menu in a Milanese dialect on the typical notebooks from elementary school.

• LATTERIA: It’s like going at your grandparents’ for dinner, except these are your Italian grandparents, Arturo and Maria. It already sounds oh so cute, I know. And it is! The place is small and informal, no-frills, for sure. A and M use all ingredients that come directly from their own vegetable garden! Adorable!

Best Cafè – CALIFORNIA BAKERY – I love coffee to go. It’s definitely one of my addictions. I just like the whole idea; holding your coffee while you’re walking to your office and how you get to make it exactly how you like it: Cream? Cinnamon? Vanilla? Sugar? Brown sugar? Milk? Soy milk? and so much more… but we’ re not America and not even Europe for the coffee thing. We don’t have all that -ino (frappuccino, mocaccino…) stuff. People here drink espresso and seeAmerican coffee as brown colored water. So this is my pick for best Cafè whether you like it or not!

Best Patisserie - SISSI – It’s a typical place to go on a Sunday morning. They have the most amazing savory pastries and a small hidden veranda on the back were you can read your newspaper peacefully. The owners are from Senegal so the French accent you hear while having your breakfast makes everything more special. A real surprise.

Best Bookstore – 10 CORSO COMO. I love the location, the white everything and the silence. The bookstore has so many books about fashion, architecture, design, art and graphic design.

Best Clubs - MAGAZZINI GENERALI only on Friday and only downstairs in the ba<x>sement, at Pink it’s Punk… don’t get confused! It’s not the same at all!

- PLASTIC on Saturday. It’s a real show! That’ s why the party is called House of Bordello.

Best Hotel – HOTEL STRAF – For sure we have more luxury hotels than this in Milan! The thing is that this one was made by one of my favorite Italian designers: Vincenzo De Cotiis. I’ve been following his work (and also his clothing line) since I was young and when I found out about this place I just ran to see it! It’s dark hi-tech minimalism. He made every room different using innovative materials and giving a slight vintage touch.

———–

Ok, this is great ! I’ve been coming to Milan for years and I’ve never heard of half (except the California Bakery, that’s where we got the carrot cake…) I can’t wait to try everything !

——————————————————————————————————

米兰:men and women, 在garance dore 的镜头下非常有“张力“。